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Written by David Landesman on 21 May It is important to put the ink through a conveyor dryer long enough, and at the right temperture to fully cure the ink properly. That temperature is provided on your specific ink's product bulletin. Keep in mind that thicker ink deposits e. Faster fusing or low cure inks will reach their fusion or cure temperatures more quickly than conventional inks.

There is not a single easy answer. Many factors play into how long it takes to completely cure an ink. Are you using an electric dryer or a gas dryer? Does the print have a thick ink deposit? Are you printing on T-shirts or fleece? Measuring the ink temperature on the garment, as it passes through the dryer, is the best way to determine the time it takes for your inks to cure properly.

A "Wash Test" is the best method. Take a sample print, cut it in half, and wash it 3 to 5 times in a conventional washing machine with 3 pairs of jeans or towels. Complete 3 to 5 wash cycles and compare the "washed" sample to the "unwashed" sample. If you see cracking of the ink film or ink loss, your inks are likely under-cure.

Most inks will "gel" flash when the ink film reaches F to F C to C. There are 3 factors that affect the "gel" or "flash" of the ink: the temperature of the flash, the distance of the flash from the printed image, and the time the printed image is exposed to the heat. As a rule, you want to flash the ink film until it is just "dry to the touch".

Over-flashing inks can cause inter-coat adhesion problems and make the inks very "tacky". Check your flash cure unit to see if it has temperature and airflow controls. These can help you better control your flash cure process. Many things, none of them good! Typical problems that arise from improperly cured inks include: ink washing off the garments, cracking of the ink film, loss of color, and bleeding of the garment color s into the ink film.

There are several reasons. Flashing enables you to print one coat of ink on top of another - e. You also might flash an ink to keep wet ink off the back of your screens.

Some inks, such as glitters, metallics and high densities, are not designed to be printed "wet-on wet". They should be "flashed" when printing in sequence. You can use your flash unit to cure your inkbut we do not recommend it.Dwell time is dependent on the spot dryer used.

In some cases, you may have to lower the heat of the spot cure unit because too much heat may actually make the ink tacky. When you spot dry, you are only partially fusing or gelling the surface of the ink.

The ink should be just dry to the touch, with no lift off, but not totally fused. Totally fusing the underprint white may cause inter-coat adhesion problems with the inks printed on top of the white ink. Final fusing or curing should occur in the dryer. On some types of fabric, bleeding or dye migration may occur.

Always test print the fabric to be printed before beginning production. It is best to do some long term testing on fabrics to determine if they are going to bleed. Bleeding or dye migration may not occur right away.

Hand printing is less tiring because less squeegee pressure is needed. The result is increased operator performance. Automatic equipment can be adjusted to lower squeegee pressure settings, thus improving screen life, squeegee durability, and overall print quality. This means less ink will be used; a real money saver in terms of ink usage and cost per print.

It also means a softer hand on flashed fabrics. Adding any reducers or additives can lower bleed resistance, opacity, or increase cure times of ink. STIR the ink prior to printing on press and after addition of reducers or additives. Rating Required Select Rating 1 star worst 2 stars 3 stars average 4 stars 5 stars best. Review Subject Required. Comments Required.

Current Stock:. Test dryer temperatures and wash test printed product before and during a production run. Centris Plastisol Inks White Poly - Plastisol ink can be specially formulated for each of these fabrics as one ink is rarely the best option for all fabrics. One Stroke Inks offers numerous formulations for every fabric as the needs of screen printers is constantly changing. This is usually accomplished with a conveyor dryer manufactured specifically with screen printers in mind.

One Stroke Inks manufactures plastisol screen printing ink with quality in mind. This is why One Stroke Inks formulates so many different plastisol inks. One Stroke Inks knows these materials and formulates their plastisol ink accordingly. One Stroke Inks is located in Louisville, Kentucky. All plastisol inks manufactured by One Stroke Inks are only distributed factory direct. This assures customers located all over the country get the fastest UPS Ground shipping. One Stroke Inks can ship to Chicago, Illinois in just one day.

Miami, Florida and even the furthest tip of Oklahoma are only two days away. Utilize the information below to contact One Stroke Inks for the best plastisol ink.

Plastisol ink for screen printing cotton. Plastisol ink for screen printing nylon. Plastisol ink for screen printing polyester. Plastisol ink for screen printing stretchable goods. Plastisol ink for screen printing special effects. Plastisol ink for screen printing 4 color process. CorelDraw color palettes. Photoshop color palettes. Illustrator color palettes. Safety Data Sheets. What is plastisol ink? How do you dry plastisol ink? Why use One Stroke Inks? Where do I order One Stroke Inks?

Downloads at www.Plastisol inks are widely used in garment printing. They are easy to print, do not dry in the screen, can be very opaque on dark garments, and will adhere to most textiles. They are composed primarily of two ingredients, PVC resin a white powder and plasticizer a thick, clear liquid. Plastisol inks have one outstanding characteristic, they must be heated to dry. They will not dry, or cure, at normal temperatures. Plastisol inks can be printed on virtually any surface that can withstand the heat required to cure the ink and is porous enough to permit good ink penetration.

Plastisol inks do not color the fibers like a dye. Instead the ink wraps around the fibers and makes a mechanical bond with the fabric. For this reason, they will not adhere to non-porous substrates such as plastic, metal, and glass. They also will not adhere well to woven, waterproofed nylon material without adding a bonding agent.

Health, Safety, and Environmental Concerns Plastisol inks are innocuous when used with reasonable care. A true plastisol ink contains no air-polluting solvents or volatile organic compounds.

The manufacture, transportation, storage, use, and disposal of plastisol inks do not cause injury, illness, or environmental contamination as long as the appropriate safety and environmental protection procedures are followed. Most plastisol inks have a Health Rating of 1 hazard — slighta Flammability Rating of 1 hazard — slighta Reactivity Rating of 0 hazard — minimal and a Personal Protection Rating of B wear safety glasses and gloves.

Mesh Selection With over different meshes to choose from, selecting the correct mesh can be a frustrating process. Use the following information as a general guideline for mesh selection. When printing fleece goods use 20 threads lower.

When printing with an automatic press use 30 threads higher. Capillary film stencils are also a good choice, particularly when printing halftones and transfers.

curing plastisol ink

Plastisol Ink Additives A word of caution about ink additives. The result can be a print that never cures properly, a problem that may not be discovered until your customer washes a shirt and the design falls off.Monarch Color manufactures the newest, most innovative, plastisol screen printing inks on the market today.

We specialize in low-temp plastisol inks to meet today's printing challenges. From bleeding sports apparel, to exotic fabrics that can't take standard cure temperatures, we have you covered. Our Yeti White inks are the brightest, whitest, and highest opacity white inks on the market.

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Our universal Low Temp Apocalypse LB color system, which allows you to print on most fabric types, are the highest opacity colors, on the market. It gives you the option of printing without an under-base, for optimum production speeds. Our Non-Phthalate, lead free plastisols are no-odor inks and meet environmental requirements for printing onto textiles.

When Monarch entered the Garment printing market, our goal was to create the newest, most innovative plastisol screen printing inks that surpassed the current ink standards for; color, opacity, work-ability, performance, and bleed resistance.

Rapid Cure Plastisol Ink Yellow

While leaving a matte finish, soft hand, and excellent drape that all customers want. Monarch's new ULT II has all of the same characteristics that made the original ULT so popular; soft hand, stretchable, bleed resistant, very opaque, extremely bright white, and works well on virtually all fabrics.

The only difference between the ULT and the ULT II is that we have formulated the ink to have a shorter body for easier printing on a manual presses, number presses, and higher mesh counts. Ink Characteristics:. Although designed specifically for dye sublimated fabrics, it will work well on all high dye release fabrics without the fibrillation you get from other barrier inks.

If you are looking to shield yourself from discoloration when screen printing on dye sublimated fabrics, Guardian Grey's got your back. Monarch did it again with this line of ink. We took what we learned with the Apocalypse High Opacity inks and applied it to standard cure temp inks. This series of inks give you massively opaque white and colors, at a value price point.

These inks are creamy, soft, and very easy to print with, with no white underbase needed for colors. Our inks are no-odor inks and meet environmental requirements for printing onto textiles. MP Yeti Cotton White. MP Bigfoot Black Cotton. Apocalypse LB Colors. Apocalypse ULT Colors. Apocalypse Cotton Colors. MP Stark Cotton White. MP Stark Cotton Black. Dye Test Kit Instructions.

Our Apocalypse Blending system is a state of the art, high opacity, color mixing system available in:. Unlike other inks, all of our plastisol colors, whether you are using Low Temp or Standard cure temp inks, use the same blending formulas.

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It will enable you to accurately create most PMS colors, no matter which of our inks you are using.Curing Plastisol Ink with a Heat Press Here you can discuss any issues related to working with plastisol screen printing inks. This would include curing, mixing colors, additives, brands, usages and much more.

It is less than quick, but good for folks who don't have the cash or space for a conveyor. I flash well enough to get a solid gel cure for handling. Then, in the press, do NOT just squash the shirt! Turn the shirt over so heat has to migrate through a layer.

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That slows it down and makes the process more gentle. Protect against ink getting on the press just in case. Here's the key: I close the press with no clamping - just barely resting on the back of the shirt. For my gear, I bake for two full minutes! This temp is same as my transfers, a big reason I have come back to using this setting.

Your shirt should now be set up like a transfer, with ink that will not squish. If you are NOT getting this result at this point you need to tinker with settings and times.

I do not press immediately - I let it cool a bit by waving it around in the air. I don't want the ink to be tacky at all. Now to finish, under a teflon or parchment I press for 15 sec atmedium-to-firm pressure. The results seem perfect.

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Yes - it is slow, but you can multitask print or paperwork, etc during the bake stage. I have tested in a few washes with perfect results, and I am still washing the test sample every day as harshly as I can. Thanks so much for posting this. I love it. A word of caution: You are totally on your own if you try your own mods.

The main reason a cheap heating-element type flash unit won't work well for curing is that the temperature is uneven from center to edges by a large margin, more than degrees. If you leave such a unit over a garment for a while, you could literally set fire to the shirt before you cure the edges.

The task, therefore, is to even out the temperature The open face of the heating element on mine is simply open to the air with a wire mesh to hold it in place. Since the element covers the whole surface, the center area gets very hot while the edges are much cooler. The air around the outer edges will remain much cooler because it is only being 'heat boosted' or 'insulated' by the small area of the center, while the outer edges are simply cold air.

In addition, any air movement effects the edge areas immediately. All the cool air in the room where you print can waft by and cool the edges down drastically.The most popular ink used in the garment printing industry is Plastisol ink.

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Screen printing plastisol ink is easy to print with, does not dry in the screen, is opaque on dark garments, and features great adhesion to most t-shirts, athletic jerseys, hoodies, heat transfers, and most textiles in general.

Screen print plastisols are made up of two primary ingredients - PVC resin a white powder and plasticizer a thick, clear liquid. Plastisol ink will not dry, or cure, at normal temperatures. Plastisol inks can be printed on many items that can withstand the heat required to cure the ink and is porous enough to permit good ink adhesion. They do not dye the threads of a fabric like traditional dye material.

curing plastisol ink

Plastisol screen printing ink wraps around the fibers and makes a mechanical bond with the fabric. Screen printing plastisols will not adhere to non-porous substrates such as plastic, metal, wood and glass. Use the following information as a guide for choosing your screen mesh:. CDF film are also faster to use and eliminate pin-holds in the screen.

The result can be t-shirt ink that never cures properly, a problem that may not be discovered until your customer washes a shirt and the design falls i.

To avoid this problem, use only those additives recommended by the manufacturer, and read the Technical Data Sheets for each ink and additive, and carefully follow their instructions. Never add mineral spirits to plastisol ink. Although mineral spirits will make it easier to print at first, soon the ink will become even stiffer and harder to print than before. Also, it is possible that mineral spirits will prevent the ink from curing properly.

Store plastisol inks at room temperature. Clean plastisol ink off your screens with either mineral spirits or any of the various brand name screens washes available from your screen printing supplier.

Use a press wash for when you are done screen printng for the day, but plan on keeping the image on the screen.

curing plastisol ink

Use an ink degradent to remove plastisol and grpahic ink from the screen and mesh. Lawson Screen and Digital also recommends using a Dip Tank to reclaim screens, or a washout booth. Dye migration is the problem caused by dyes in polyester fibers transferring to and changing the color of plastisol inks.

The colors most likely to migrate are red, maroon, kelly green, and some of the darker blues. Dye migration may appear immediately after the ink is cured, or hours, days, or up to two weeks later. To control dye migration use the following procedures:.

curing plastisol ink with flash dryer and heat gun

The washability of properly cured direct and transfer prints are excellent. When washing, it is always recommended that the garment be turned inside out.


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Curing plastisol ink
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